Visit to Champtoceaux in June 2011
Our French friends visited Verwood in 2010 in order to celebrate 25
years of Twinning between Verwood and Champtoceaux and its canton
consisting of Bouzillé, Champtoceaux,
Drain, Landemont, Liré, Saint Christophe La Couperie,
Laurent des Autels, Saint Sauveur de Landemont and La Varenne. During the
visit our French friends invited us to France on a return visit in 2011.
Thus it was that 51 Members of Verwood and Three Legged Cross Twinning
Association set off on a return visit to Champtoceaux in the Loire Valley.
The majority went by coach which left Verwood on the evening of Wednesday
the 1st of June to Portsmouth for an overnight crossing to St.Malo.
Thursday the 2nd of June 2011 - Arrrival.
The French hosts await the coach
and then greet their friends on its arrival
Thursday the 2nd of June is Ascension day and Friday becomes an extra
holiday so many Parisians and others set off for the coast using the A11
autoroute. This created a traffic jam around Nantes where the Verwood
coach got stuck. After extraditing itself and having a tour of the market
at Ancenis it arrived slightly later than planned at 12:45 hrs.
Our French friends awaited its arrival at the "place de
Niederheimbach", which is situated behind the Church amd close to the
swimming pool (Niederheimbach is Champtoceaux's twinned town in Germany,
situated on the Rhine just north of Bingen). Many old friends were
re-acquainted and new friends were made. After meeting everybody "la
municipalité de Champtoceaux" invited their guests to "Accueil
et vere de l'amitié au Champalud" which is a communal area just
above the main Loire viewpoint. After enjoying the wine everybody
dispersed with their hosts for a well earned meal and time with their
Friday the 3rd of June 2011 - Trip from Nantes to St
The next day most guests arrived at the "place Paul
Deltombe" by 08:15 hrs for a coach ride to the "quai Ernest Renaud
a la Gare maritime" in Nantes. This is adjacent to the boat museum
"Le Maillé Brézé" (If you want to know more, visit their site
at http://www.maillebreze.com/ ).
French families and some guests travelled there by car.
Nantes everybody boarded the "Neves Amzer" (which was built in
2009 for the "Finist'mer" company) for the 37 mile trip down the
Loire to "Saint Nazaire". After leaving Nantes the first major
road bridge is that of the Nantes Peripherique which is a major route south
to the A83 autoroute going south to the Marais Poitevin (The Green Venice),
Niort and Bordeaux.
the 1970s, Nantes' harbour was located on the Île de Nantes, then it
was moved to the very mouth of the Loire River, at Saint-Nazaire. In
the subsequent 20 years, many service sector organisations moved
into the area, but economic difficulties forced most of these to close. In
2001, a major redevelopment scheme was launched, the goal of which is to
revitalise the island as the new city centre.
The area between the Port of Nantes and the south entrance
to the bay of Saint Nazaire can be divided into three, a 10 mile long
"dyked part" followed by a 17 mile long "middle part"
and then a 10 mile long "maritime part".
hosts had invited a local expert to come along and give a commentary about
the wildlife and the Industries on the Loire. He was very informative and
passionate about his subject but unfortunately he couldn't speak English.
Luckily for the visitors Sandra Ground stepped in and for most of the trip
acted as an interpreter.
loire Estuary is funnel shaped and opens towards the sea with the river
width opening up from 200 metres at Cheviré to over 2km at Saint Nazaire.
Nantes, between which point and La Martiniere (below Pellerin) the channel
is embanked, and then widens out between marshy shores, passing Paimbceuf on
the left and finally Saint-Nazaire. The drainage area of the Loire is
A lateral canal (built in1881-1892 at a cost of about £1,000,000)
known as the Maritime Canal of the Loire between Le Carnet and La Martinière
enabled large ships to ascend to Nantes. It is 15km. long. At each end
is a lock 405 ft. long by 59 ft. wide. It was quickly abandoned at the
begining of WW1 as a ship canal and has now become an indispensable fresh
water reserve for water management in the agricultural areas on the
south bank in the Pays de Retz area..
France is very keen on its modern art as can be seen at the
easterly lock entrance to the Maritime Canal ,with a Yatch appearing to
dive over the lock wall. Is it a lighthouse or a house? - no its modern art
but in this case you can stay overnight in the house part if you are
prepared to join a very long waiting list.
The Dyked part of the Loire has dykes on both
riverbaks. The dyking process started in 1756-1768 and completed in the 4th
period between 1892-1898. The north bank of this part of the Loire is
occupied by many industries and also by a number of ancient sites which
nowadays have fallen into ruin.
middle part of the Loire crosses a nature area with swamps on the
northern bank which has been exploited since the middle ages. The EDF
Cordemais Electricity Power Plant with a capacity of 2600 MWatts is
the biggest open fire plant in France.
This part of the River Loire was made navigable between 1907
and 1925 but a lot of small islands had to be removed to make it navigable
at low tide. This was the reason for the closure of the Martière Channel.
The Maritime part of the estuary is the most
important part both economically and environmentally. A large part of the
northern bank is occupied by port operations and accounts for 90% af all
port activities. The largest French Total oil refinery and terminal is
situated here with the largest LNG terminal in Europe.
The port at St Nazaire shipyard is now owned by Alstrom and
has built 4 super tankers but now specialises in the construction of cruise
ships and LNG tankers. The cuise ships include the "Ile de
France"(1927), "Normandie" (1935),"France" (1962)
and "Queen Mary II" (2003 ). It also builds ferries and the
current ship on the stocks was ordered by Libya (2011), but who is going to
pay for it is not known.
The "Neves Amzer" arrived outside the lock gate at
Saint Nazaire at 12:15 hrs and everybody disembarked. There was a moderate
walk passing the lock and through the old submarine pens to the restaurant,
which was built at the shore end of one the pens. Lunch was then held
with two sittings.
The lock and Submarine Pens were built during the German
occupation at the beginning of the WWII to service the submarines whose
"Wolf Packs" harassed Allied shipping in the North Atlantic.
For those who remember the TV series and film "Das Boot"
will remember the lock and Pens from this excellent film which showed
"the claustrophobic world of a WWII German U-boat; boredom, filth, and
Hosts and guests departed Saint Nazaire at 15:30hrs for the
return sail to Nantes.
Saturday the 4th of June 2011-
each visit from Verwood and Three Legged Cross a different commune takes the
lead and this year it was the turn of Drain which meant that most of the
local events and venues for the twinning visit were in and around
On Saturday morning some guests visited the library in Drain
to see an exhibition themed on England - this consisted of the Alphabet with
English words connected. For instance H had words like "Harry
Potter" and "Hat". There were childrens books, magazines and
newspapers also in English.
On display was the banner made by the Verwood stitchers and
presented to our French friends at "Moors Valley" on their visit
Association had also taken some cakes (Baked by some ladies of the committee
- and one man), sweets and soft drinks to add to the show.
We were welcomed by the the ladies of the Library and the
Mayoress of Drain. Wine and English Tea were offered to go with English
Saturday the 4th of June 2011-
16:00 hrs after an afternoon with their hosts, families and guests were
welcomed by Brigitte & Gerard Migon in their 19th Century
mansion,"Le Mésangeau" near Drain, for drinks and nibbles in the
garden, There was a chance to view his collection of veteran cars, one of
which had taken part in the recent 2011 London to Brighton run.
"Le Mésangeau" is part of the "BienVenue au
Chateau" chain of private residences which do bed and breakfast
and evening meal so there was also a chance to visit the main rooms in the
house including one of the bedrooms.
For more information go to http://www.loire-mesangeau.com/en/MenuE.htm
Saturday the 4th of June 2011-
At 18:00hrs everybody returned to the "La Maison
Commune des Loisirs" for the soirée where a folk band entertained and
everyone enjoyed an exellent meal consisting of :-
Pintade vallée d'Auge, Galette de carottes sur fond d'artichaut et
Dessert en duo
Wines included Malvoisie, Gamay rosé and Gamay rouge and
Crémant de Loire.
During the evening Verwood's Chairman,
Terry Bright, made a presentation to his opposite number in
Champtoceaux of three framed paintings by Lynda Appelby, of houses connected
with the novels of Thomas Hardy. Much to the amusement of the French, an
unused Verwood brick, courtesy of Pam Reeks, was given along with a framed
Later after the meal there was dancing and
singing and as on the previous visit there was another thunderstorm.
Sunday the 5th of June 2011
All the guests enjoyed a day with the
hosts though unfortunately the day dawned inclement.
Monday the 6th of June 2011
Those travelling by coach had to be up
early at 05:00 hrs on the Monday morning in order to catch the 10:00hrs
ferry from St. Malo to Portsmouth.
pictures and text by Stuart Clifton.